Over the summer, the watchmaking coppia of Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner presented what was to be the final edition of Urwerk’s UR-210 watch, an antique of contemporary independent watch design that has been around since, since it launched in 2012, the reference I most associated with their company. Recently, they’ve announced the followup to the UR-210 in the form of the new UR-220, codenamed the “Falcon Project. ” Besides being quite a cool looking watch, the UR-220 introduces some new features, includes the return of others, and offers a glimpse into the next chapter of the UR-200 series. On the materials front, the UR-220 case comes in the form of 82 ultra-thin layers of high-resistance 150g CTP carbon that has been compressed into a hard resin. If you look closely at the sloping the top case, the fact that it’s made of many levels is apparent. (CTP stands for Carbon Thin Ply; we possess seen the material also used in the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater). The UR-220 strap is made of rubber, a primary for Urwerk. But it’s not just any rubber strap. For its first rubber band, Urwerk provides what it refers to as the Vulcarboné process, which Urwerk says give it a touch like velvet. Most obviously, the UR-220 uses the actual familiar system of planetary, or wandering, hours. However , unlike in the UR-210 models, the particular movement here is manually injure, not automatic.
It’s this signature, three-armed display that most of us tend to associate with Urwerk. The hrs are displayed on three blocks that are connected to the 3 arms. The display portion comprises the 120-degree calotte along that the arms pass, picking up typically the retrograde minutes, which snap back on the hour, as they go. The actual display can sound a bit elaborate at first, but it’s actually very perceptive. And thanks to the high level of contrast between the green numbers and minute track and the black architecture of the carousel, it’s quite legible too. Each spinning arm has a block with four associated with its sides bearing figures that correspond to the several hours. The only other dial-side display is the power-reserve indicator, or even indicators, I ought to say. There are two them, tucked in the upper left and upper right corners of the display, respectively. Each of them tracks consecutive 24-hour periods, so that when the very first is filled or perhaps emptied, the second takes over, for a total power reserve of 48 hours. Dividing the power reserve between two displays was no simple feat: It required some 83 additional parts. On the backside of the Urwerk’s UR-210 view, we see often the return from the oil change indicator, a display that was long seen in Urwerk’s UR-110 models. In its UR-220 guise, the exact indicator sees some enhancements. When the owner takes possession of a new Urwerk’s UR-210 enjoy, he or she will notice any pin within the back of the watch. Pulling the very pin causes the oil change indicator to start keeping track of the months of the watch’s active running time. After 39 a few months, the UR-220 should be sent a number of service, after which Urwerk’s watchmakers reset the main indicator to zero as well as reinstall the pin, allowing the process to be repeated. Looking at the UR-220, one can see a strong likeness to the recently retired UR-210. The CTP carbon case – the first of its kind for Urwerk – the use of some sort of manual-wind movement, and titanium caseback the actual UR-220 a lightweight watch, and a relatively sleek one by Urwerk standards. The new situation material also gives the UR-220 a wonderfully textured look. I think it’s a great look, however I was so surprised that Urwerk hadn’t made a new carbon circumstance before that I double-checked this particular with the company’s U. S. office. The particular rubber straps, which has a excellent textured/layered appear that works perfectly with the event, is another surprising first. But for me, the actual oil modify indicator along with removable green is maybe the coolest portion of the new UR-220. It’s thoughtful creations like this, which can be found throughout Urwerk’s watches, that I think are most tasty to our “teenage brain, ” that part of us that will happily construct a Rube Goldberg machine to be busy or enchanted.