Of all the new “icons” to emerge since the resurgence of the mechanical wristwatch – and there are plenty when you factor in the Hublot Big Bang, the skeletal designs from Richard Un migliaio, Franck Muller’s reinvention of the tonneau and others – Bell & Ross’ BR0 may be the most relevant. Why “relevant”? Because the BR0s are the most approachable in terms of price.
Anyone can aspire to say, a Richard Mille RM011, but tremendously more individuals can actually afford an starting BR0 model, typically at under £3000. Conversely, Bells and Ross BR-X2 TOURBILLON has used the BR0 round dial/square case formula for everything from diving models to tourbillons, but the where the irony comes in is by using this “high end” from the BR0 range: even when the watch hosts complications or exotic materials, the actual pricing remains sensible. It’s a lesson in humility for any brands that are slowly : but surely – killing the geese laying all those 18k offspring.
What Bell & Ross creates with its luxo-BR0 models are unusual mash-ups of military designs – the entire shtick is based on cockpit instrumentality – with haute horlogerie credentials. Yes, Panerai, Beritling watch and a few others do it, too, so I’m not ascribing uniqueness to this concept, however the BR0 versions, especially those with an “X” in the call, do it with a delightfully weird French insouciance. Look up the particular magazine Metal Hurlant or Wild Planet to catch my drift. You don’t get more French. That simple “X” is important, because Bell & Ross uses it in order to designate, as does (NASA) NATIONAL AERONAUTICS AND SPACE ADMINISTRATION, its experimental models. The “X Factor”, before it was co-opted for a mind-numbing reality TV show, has always meant mystery and unknown elements (rather than attitude masquerading as talent). For Bells & Ross, the letter “X” first appeared within 2014 with the BR-X1, having a skeleton chronograph movement inside a high-tech BR0 square situation that combined titanium, ceramic and rubber.
It was followed in 2016 by the BR-X1 Tourbillon Blue, which changed the possibilities in the BR0 circumstance by providing total transparency thanks to the square case being cut through a block of sapphire. For 2017, the BR-X2 Tourbillon Micro-Rotor shows its X factor by forming the case from steel and sky-blue, in the form of a sandwich. It thus provides structural integrity and complete transparency without the agonising manufacturing process of making a solid prevent of blue. Bruno Belamich, the brand’s creative director, came up with the idea of “fusing the situation and movement into a single component to the actual case disappear, leaving only the motion visible. ” Clever, this: the basic structure of Bell & Ross’ BR0 watches lent itself perfectly for this novel solution for a sapphire construct. OKAY, so it’s a “semi”, but you still enjoy a complete exposé because the forty two. 5mm framework consists of see-through top-and-bottom solid sapphire plates, between which is the movements in the previously mentioned sandwich configuration.
From the side, you see the slim strip of metal. Despite the “filling” being typically the movement in a square iron frame, the consequence is no less “naked” just because the metal work reaches to the case’s edges. It’s perfectly offset by a grey alligator strap and it possesses the same rugged-yet-transparent presence that defines often the Hublots as well as Milles and also Cvstoses along with Rebellions and other macho skeletons.
For those who want something worth seeing, this particular doesn’t dissatisfy. Not only is the Bell in addition to Ross BR-X2 TOURBILLON BR-CAL. 380 activity a flying tourbillon, it’s automatic, having a micro-rotor as the name declares. And the underside view is as enticing since the front, because the clean links highlight both the back of the exact tourbillon and the rotor by itself. The mobility is slightly skeletonised; in conjunction with the sky-blue components and a case thickness of just 8. 9mm, this is a slim piece which won’t tug at a bp cuff. Two other novel components deserve mention. The first is that this watch is actually water-resistant to be able to 50m. The second is that it has been priced at €49, 900, that is low not only for an automatic watch along with tourbillon, but for a watch that is predominantly situated in blue. Bad news? Only 99 will be produced, so get your thumbs out if you fancy the thought of owning one of the world’s few military-styled, see-through tourbillons.